Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 3

To see how we got here got to Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 2

Next I would get the strip flooring cut to length and laid out, UPSIDE DOWN, so that it has a chance to season to local conditions and provides a floor to work and walk on.

A ribbon bearer is installed to fasten the lower weatherboards to.

With an cladding system it is advisable to install sarking. 

Make sure that your window and door jams are installed and correctly flashed an the you can start installing the cladding.

All cladding should be installed as per the manufacturers instructions. All natural timber product should be pre primed on the back and joints where you won’t be able to paint them once they are installed. All Fasteners should be able to resist exposure to the weather. Ensure that any joints are tight and waterproof. To see more on this process watch these videos:
The cladding should also, where possible, be spaced so that all the board are even right to the top of the seen wall. To see more on this process watch this video:

With the Cladding complete the eave frame can be built. There are a few different styles of eaves that you could have, the one shown here is a Boxed or Level Eave.

The finished eave should finish around 10mm above the brickwork to allow for the timber frame to settle overtime. 

A quad or similar moulding is used to cover the gap and still allow for the movement. 

Architrave are installed around the windows and doors. Ensure that the materials you use will stand up to the weather conditions.

Skirting blocks should be installed to give you something other than the studs to nail to. These can just be blocks of anything, they don't need to be cut in tight.

With the outside finished the work inside can really start. Internal linings such as Plasterboard can be installed. 

Plasterboard can also be used on the ceiling and the intersection covered with a cornice moulding again made from Plasterboard.

Try to leave turning the floor over and nailing it down for as long as possible so that any paint or plaster end up on the back not the finished face.

Architrave is used to cover the gap between the window jamb and the wall. 

Skirting mould use to cover the connection between the wall and the floor.

Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 2

To see the first part of this process go to Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 1

The timber frame is constructed next. This can be constructed onsite or more commonly nowadays constructed at a frame and truss factory and delivered to site.
To see more on this process watch these videos:

The walls are stood, plumbed, braced and tied down ready for the roof.

Again there are several options at this stage. Trusses are a common method of constructing the roof.
To see more on Trusses watch this videos ‘Truss roof erection’

Or you could go with the option of the cut on site option.
To see more on this process watch these videos:

Once the roof is on then the Fascia can be installed. The Fascia was traditionally timber and is still available in lengths of finger jointed pre-primed pine however a metal fascia is now more common as it is quicker and easier to install and does not require painting.

Now that the Fascia is on the Roof covering can be placed, again there are options at this stage namely a Metal roof,‘Colourbond’, or Tiles. Both methods require the installation of battens for fixing the covering to the roof. 
With tile roofs the first batten is different to the rest. It is called a Bellcast batten and it sits taller than the others to kick the first tile up so it sits at the same angle as the rest of the tiles.

The Anti-ponding board is installed next.

A layer of sarking or sisalation can also be installed at this point. This is not mandatory but something that I prefer. The sarking provides a backup layer incase water is blown through the joins in the tiles or can be combined with an insulation layer under a metal roof to lessen the noise of rain.

Once the roof is on the building can really kick off work can go ahead regardless of the weather can work can be happening inside and out. The Windows and External Door Jambs can be installed at this point so they are ready for the bricklayer.

Now that the roof is on we can lay out the flooring and start closing the building up while the plumbing and electrical rough in can be commenced.

To see what happens next go to Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 2

Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 1

This method of construction incorporates a raised platform floor so we need to start with the a Footing system. The system will consist of a Strip Footing running around the perimeter of the building and a grid of Blob Footings through the centre of the building.  

The Strip Footing reinforced generally with 2 layers of Trench Mesh, detailed in the plans and specifications. While the Blob footing just mass concrete poured into an excavation. 

Both the Strip and Blob Footing should be finished level with a rough finish to allow the mortar to adhere to it. They should also finish approximately 1 course of brickwork below the ground so they can be covered up when the landscaping is done.

Next the Dwarf Wall is constructed on top of the Strip Footing. The Dwarf wall is a single skin of brickwork which is built up to the level of the underside of the bearers.

Ventilation is built in to the Dwarf Wall to allow air flow to occur in the sub-floor space. These vents should be placed roughly every metre.

The Dwarf wall is reinforced with Engaged Piers which also act as the bearing point for the Bearers.

On top of the Blob Footing is a Isolated Pier, also known as a Sleeper Pier. The Isolated Pier supports the Bearers through the middle of the building and therefore the spacing of the Isolated Pier is equal to the maximum span of the Bearers and the Joists.

Now we are ready to place our first timber member. Because the brickwork is porous (will adsorb moisture) and we don’t want the timber frame getting wet we need to separate the Brickwork from the timber. This is done using a DPC ( Damp Proof Course) or DPM ( Damp Proof Membrane). Nowadays embossed black polyethylene plastic (Plascousre)  is most commonly used although you can also use products like Alcor and Lead.

Then comes the Termite protection in the form of Ant Capping.
A continuous length on the Dwarf Wall, a Half Cap on the Engaged Pier and a Full Cap on the Isolated Pier. These used to be joined together with solder however nowadays there is a special adhesive that can be used. Termite Proof Silicone

Now it is time for our first timber member the Bearer. The Bearer is the lowest timber member in the building. It is set 40mm from the inside of the Dwarf wall centred on the Engaged Pier. The Bearer usually runs along the length of the house. Traditionally the Bearer is not fastened down it relies on the weight of the building to hold them in place however nowadays in high wind areas they can be held down with Builders strap embedded into the Engaged Pier or Threaded Rod cast into the Footing.

As this is a timber Framed building the Bearer will start flush with the external face of the Dwarf wall.

The Bearer must be a minimum of 400mm off the ground to within 2m from the Dwarf wall from there is may slope up to a minimum of 150mm  from the underside of the bearer at the wall. This is to allow for good ventilation and good access under the building for inspections.

The Joists are next. They are spaced to suit the flooring that is going to go on top, commonly 450mm centre to centre (c/c) or 600 c/c. They are laid at 90 degrees to the Bearer. Double joists are required under the external load bearing walls where the wall runs parallel to the joists. As this method has a cut in floor you will need to space the joists apart so that the inside joist sits half under the plate and half is left to support the strip flooring. To watch a video on this process go to

To see what happens next got to Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 2