Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 1

To watch the video got too ‘Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 1‘

This method of construction incorporates a raised platform floor so we need to start with the a Footing system. The system will consist of a Strip Footing running around the perimeter of the building and a grid of Blob Footings through the centre of the building.  

The Strip Footing reinforced generally with 2 layers of Trench Mesh, detailed in the plans and specifications. While the Blob footing just mass concrete poured into an excavation. 

Both the Strip and Blob Footing should be finished level with a rough finish to allow the mortar to adhere to it. They should also finish approximately 1 course of brickwork below the ground so they can be covered up when the landscaping is done.

Next the Dwarf Wall is constructed on top of the Strip Footing. The Dwarf wall is a single skin of brickwork which is built up to the level of the underside of the bearers.

Ventilation is built in to the Dwarf Wall to allow air flow to occur in the sub-floor space. These vents should be placed roughly every metre.

The Dwarf wall is reinforced with Engaged Piers which also act as the bearing point for the Bearers.

On top of the Blob Footing is a Isolated Pier, also known as a Sleeper Pier. The Isolated Pier supports the Bearers through the middle of the building and therefore the spacing of the Isolated Pier is equal to the maximum span of the Bearers and the Joists.

Now we are ready to place our first timber member. Because the brickwork is porous (will adsorb moisture) and we don’t want the timber frame getting wet we need to separate the Brickwork from the timber. This is done using a DPC ( Damp Proof Course) or DPM ( Damp Proof Membrane). Nowadays embossed black polyethylene plastic (Plascousre)  is most commonly used although you can also use products like Alcor and Lead.

Then comes the Termite protection in the form of Ant Capping.

A continuous length on the Dwarf Wall, a Half Cap on the Engaged Pier and a Full Cap on the Isolated Pier. These used to be joined together with solder however nowadays there is a special adhesive that can be used. Termite Proof Silicone

Now it is time for our first timber member the Bearer. The Bearer is the lowest timber member in the building. It is set 40mm from the inside of the Dwarf wall centred on the Engaged Pier. The Bearer usually runs along the length of the house. Traditionally the Bearer is not fastened down it relies on the weight of the building to hold them in place however nowadays in high wind areas they can be held down with Builders strap embedded into the Engaged Pier or Threaded Rod cast into the Footing.

As this is a timber Framed building the Bearer will start flush with the external face of the Dwarf wall.

The Bearer must be a minimum of 400mm off the ground to within 2m from the Dwarf wall from there is may slope up to a minimum of 150mm  from the underside of the bearer at the wall. This is to allow for good ventilation and good access under the building for inspections.

The Joists are next. They are spaced to suit the flooring that is going to go on top, commonly 450mm centre to centre (c/c) or 600 c/c. They are laid at 90 degrees to the Bearer. Double joists are required under the external load bearing walls where the wall runs parallel to the joists. As this method has a cut in floor you will need to space the joists apart so that the inside joist sits half under the plate and half is left to support the strip flooring. To watch a video on this process go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_H-bJtZwvI

To see what happens next got to Timber Frame Cut in Floor Section Part 2

Cut and Fill

To see the video on this subject go to 'Cut and Fill and Piered Footing System'

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When we have a block of land that is not level we have a couple of options as to what we can do. We can work with it or we can level it out. 

The process of leveling the block is called Cut and Fill because you will need to remove material (soil) from part of the Block, ‘Cut’ and bring in controlled fill to build up the rest of the block, ‘Fill’. Remember that the vegetation will need to be removed from anywhere that you will be placing the fill. If it is left in place it will rot and create voids in the fill and then subsequent movement.

This process also involve the construction of Retaining walls to hold back the material that is not cut out and the fill that is brought in. The construction of Retaining walls will be covered in a separate Blog.

Once the fill is in place construction can commence as normal however we still need to consider the foundation materials. It really doesn't matter how well you compact the fill it will almost certainly move at a different rate to that of the natural inplace material. This i s problem as the building footings will pass through both.

Therefore we need to connect the footing that is in the fill with the natural ground line. 

This is achieved by drilling piers in the bottom of the footing through the fill and into the natural ground line. The footing are now effectively spanning across the piers, therefore the pier will need to be deeper than those sitting on the undisturbed ground.







Piers can also be used in slab construction for the same reasons.

Brick Veneer Platform Floor Section Part 3

To see what happened before this go to Brick Veneer Platform Floor Section Part 2

To watch the video got too ‘Brick Veneer Platform Floor Section Part 3’.

Now we need to get the Bricklayer in to run a couple of courses of brickwork until it is about a course below the bottom plate.

Vermin wire is run from the bottom plate and bedded into the brickwork so that Vermin can't get up into the wall cavity from the floor space.

The Brick veneer is tied to the timber frame every 4th course using veneer ties. 

The ties are nailed to every stud slightly above the brick and then bent down so it can be bedded into the mortar. This will ensure that any moisture or water that runs down the back of the brick will stay against the brick until it hits the flashing and exits via the weephole.

The brickwork should be laid to a ‘bond’ so that it finishes around 10mm below the ‘Drop Off’. 

Below the window the brickwork should finish 2 courses down to allow for the sill bricks and the flashing that is attached to the window should be embedded into the brickwork as well.

With the brickwork complete the eave frame can be built. There are a few different styles of eave that you could have, the one shown here is a Boxed or Level Eave.

The finished eave should finish around 10mm above the brickwork to allow for the timber frame to settle overtime. 

A quad or similar moulding is used to cover the gap and still allow for the movement.

With the outside finished the work inside can really start. Internal linings such as Plasterboard can be installed. 

Plasterboard can also be used on the ceiling and the intersection covered with a cornice moulding again made from Plasterboard.

Architrave is used to cover the gap between the window jamb and the wall and a Skirting mould use to cover the connection between the wall and the floor.